You can only read Ulysses for so long, especially since what Judge Woolsey refers to as its “satellite” books (the annotations) intensify the book’s Ground Hog’s Day-like claustrophobia. I’ve now read four versions of the action of the first chapter.
Calvin Trillin is the anti-Joyce. More so than any other writer I admire, my relationship with Trillin is a kind of easy but rewarding, one-way, virtual friendship. His prose seems to me to embody the best of what it means to come from the midwest. (Raised in Kansas City, he wrote for the New Yorker for decades.) His values are decency, humor, level-headedness, unpretentiousness, love for family and friends, and an unassuming clarity that can ripen into incisiveness. His only flaw is also Midwestern: he doesn’t always know when a joke is no longer funny.
And, in his writing about food, he adds the additional qualities of enthusiasm and a sense that–as a jacket blurb points out–food “connects us to those we care about the most deeply.”
How much of a fan am I? The frontis material for his latest collection of food writing, Feeding A Yen, lists twenty-one of his books. I’ve read nineteen of them, including the so-called Tummy Trilogy, the three food books. Feeding A Yen makes the trilogy a quartet. I’ve read the first two essays–about his quest for his daughter’s favorite childhood bagel, about his passion for pimientos de padron, a Galacian specialty pepper not available outside of Spain. Unlike Trillin, I have to be careful around food; I can fall into a compulsiveness that deadens enjoyment. But this taste–pun intended–made me realize how important food is to our lives here, in this neighborhood: how when we first moved here, we celebrated with udon noodles at TanPopo and how we regretted its loss to Lowertown; how I will walk Al past Moscow on the Hill and tell him of the wonders inside (“they make their beef stroganoff with filet mignon; they’re our kinda guys, Al); how a Paisano’s tuscan white sauce pizza and greek salad or Thai Delight's red curry can brighten a friday night or how Nina’s rosemary egg salad sandwich can elevate a Tuesday lunch. I’ve started making a point of picking up the Italian Beef from the local gyros place because it’s tasty but also because of the memories it invokes and because the owner is a good guy whose kid is sick. Thus, the link/post below.
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